The Catlins is the southeastern corner of the South Island, straddling Otago and Southland. The region has few people, remote gravel side roads, green rural landscapes, golden sand beaches, ancient forests, waterfalls, native birds and wildlife, including pakake (sea lions), kekeno (fur seals), hoiho (yellow-eyed penguins) and dolphins. It includes the 53k ha Catlins Conservation Park, established in 1975. For the more hardy, it is a place to surf. Speaking of which, this is not a place for lazy, beachy summer holidays. The region is famous for southerly winds, with trees bent sideways to prove it!
The region is on a 120-km section of the Southern Scenic Route between Balclutha and Fortrose. There are many things to do on the highway and many more on short side trips. For campers, there are fabulous options along the way. Be aware that the only town with significant services is Owaka, which is in the northeast. It is the best base for a multi-day visit, but research dinner options and book in advance if reliant on restaurants.
Most trips will run from north to south. You can think about the Catlins as activity clusters with short distances between them. Typical drive times from place to place are 5 to 20 minutes. Almost all the walks are rated easy, and few take more than 30 minutes to 40 minutes to complete. You can go to all the best-known attractions in 2 days, but there is plenty for a week.
From Balclutha, the first cluster of activities centres around Owaka, 4 km from the coast on the Southern Scenic Route, with 300 people. It has several eateries, a small supermarket, and some shops. From there, it is a short drive to Kaka Point and Nugget Point at the north end of the Catlins and the stunning remote beaches of Cannibal Bay, Surat Bay, Pūrākaunui Bay and Helena Falls Beach. Pounawea on the Catlins River estuary, Catlins Lake and the Catlins River Walk are other nearby options. Three Catlins waterfalls are within a 20-minute drive - Barrs Falls, the superlative Pūrākaunui Falls and Matai Falls. Pounawea, the waterfall walks and Catlins River Walk offer fabulous temperate rainforest experiences. There are campgrounds at Kaka Point (also a restaurant), Tawanui (the south end of the river walk), Pounawea, Pūrākanunui Bay, and freedom camping in Owaka next to the pub.
A second cluster of activities is near the small holiday township of Papatowai, a 26-minute drive from Owaka. The township is on the southwest side of the Tahakopa River Estuary. To the east is remote Tahakopa Bay, which can be reached on the easy 20-minute Tahakopa Bay Walk, with access to big ancient trees and the golden sand forest-backed beach. There are also walks around the estuary and forest on the south side, with ancient flowering rata trees featuring in December and January.
Being a bit remote, the Catlins has a quirky edge, and the best example is the Lost Gypsy Gallery and coffee caravan in Papatowai. Papatowai also has public toilets, a campground and a daytime cafe/store.
Southwest of Papatowai is Tautuku Bay, another stunning golden sand beach with rainforest walking tracks. Crossing Florence Hill from the north, the view of the bay is spectacular, and there is road access to the beach at the bottom of the hill. Tautuku Bay Nature Walk, a few hundred metres along the highway (with access to the beach), and the Lake Wilkie Walk are true gems with ancient trees and a reflecting lake. The Tautuku Estuary Walk follows with its green-to-red rushes. Immediately opposite the estuary walk access is the Forest and Bird Lenz Reserve, which combines a lesson in human impact on the forest and an attractive regenerating forest walk.
Continuing southwest on the highway takes you to the access road for Cathedral Caves, and shortly after this, Rewcastle Road provides access to Mclean Falls. Allow about 40 minutes for each walk. Note that the caves are tide-dependent, with a modest entrance fee payable at the car park. There is also a campground and restaurant at the start of the Mclean Falls access road.
The next cluster includes a short walk to Koropuku Falls (stunning), Niagara Falls (a joke), historic Waikawa, golden sand Porpoise Bay with dolphins, and Curio Bay with its 180 million-year-old tree fossils and a superbly located campground. From there, it is short side trips to Waipohatu Waterfall Track (a long walk of up to 3 hours), Slope Point for wind-blasted trees and Waipapa Point. From there, it is 66 km to Invercargill.
As you explore the Catlins, you will also encounter some interesting history, which can be viewed in the Owaka and Waikawa Museums. Māori were long present in the area, including the moa hunter era. Europeans started with sealing and whaling, then forestry to provide timber for the development of Dunedin, followed by sheep farming. Fortunately, a significant portion of the forest survived and is now protected.
The area was rife with shipwrecks (48!), including the worst loss of life in NZ history in 1881 at Waipapa Point. There was a railway line for about 60 years from Owaka to Tahakopa (near Papatowai). Check out the short Tunnel Hill Walk north of Owaka and the Catlins Rail Trail connected to Matai Falls. Roadside railway place signs mark old station locations. Driving through Mclennan, you may spot an intact station on private property.
