Russell is one of NZ's prettiest and most historic towns. Arguably, it is also one of the best locations to have a drink and meal overlooking a beautiful beach.
The town is on a rugged peninsula that points into the Bay of Islands. The Veronica Channel and Waikare Inlet run around the south side, and most of the large islands in the bay are to the northeast, between the peninsula and Cape Brett. To the west are Paihia and Waitangi. The town lies between Kororareka Bay and Oneroa Bay, with additional houses at Tapeka Point. There are other small communities to the south around Orongo Bay and at Okiato.
Despite its natural beauty, surrounded by forested steep hills and several beaches, the town retains a relaxed, small-town vibe, so long as you avoid peak holiday periods. The vibe probably reflects the relative hassle of getting there. The fastest way is from State Highway 11 by car ferry between Opua and Okiato, then a short drive north to Russell, or by ferry from Paihia if you are walking. Alternatively, it is a windy drive on Russel Road for 72 km, taking over an hour.
Once in Russell, there is plenty to do, much of it within walking distance. The waterfront has well-maintained historic buildings, including some of the oldest hotels and restaurants. A shared path is between these buildings and the beach at Kororareka Bay. You can access numerous tourist options and the ferry to Paihia from the wharf halfway along the path. Mature pohutukawa trees fringe the edge of the path and the beach and provide shelter for seating provided by cafes and restaurants.
From the beach, you can walk to the fantastic views at Te Maiki. This hill is also where Hōne Heke and his supporters cut down the British flagpole several times to protest early breaches of the Treaty of Waitangi, resulting in the Flagstaff War of 1845. Going further north to Tapeka Point, there are two contrasting beaches - Tapeka Point Beach, with white to golden sand and Rocky Bay, which is stony with numerous rock pools. You can also access the short but spectacular Tapeka Point Track to historic Tapeka pā right on the tip of the steep-sided point. Heading northeast from the town centre takes you to Oneroa Bay, a longer, beautiful sandy beach.
To the south of the town, you can also visit Okiato, the capital of NZ, immediately after signing the Treaty of Waitangi. The first government buildings were there, although all that remains is an old well and some signs in a grassy reserve.
Russell is perfect for staging a road trip around the northeast of the Bay of Islands, with the road going as far as Rawhiti. From Rawhiti, you can access the full-day tough hike to remote Cape Brett with an overnight stay in a DOC hut. You can book a water taxi back as an option. Alternatively, head east along the roads that more or less follow the coast to Helena Bay and Mimiwhangata, one of Northland's most remote drives to one of the most remote beach campsites.
