Exploring Central Otago on a winter road trip

Douglas Paul
May 24, 2020

Central Otago is gorgeous year-round, and one of our favourite places for a winter road trip. A less travelled route in New Zealand’s South Island is the ‘pig route’ from Alexandra to Dunedin (although we often begin at Wanaka), with its stunning vistas of mountains and plains, the odd lake and rich gold mining history. While you can complete this trip in a day, you won’t have much time for dallying – and there are many reasons to dally and wander en route. We’ve listed a few of our favourite stops and side trips, starting with Lake Dunstan and taking you to Bendigo, Clyde, St Bathans, Middlemarch – and through the gorgeous mountains, valleys and plains that sit at the heart of Central Otago.

Lake Dunstan

Lake Dunstan is about a thirty minute drive from Wanaka, and sits between the Pisa range to the west and Dunstan range to the east. Beautiful especially in the mornings when the water is calm and reflective, Lake Dunstan is a lovely first stop for your Otago road trip. You can drive to Cromwell at the west end of the lake, and there are plenty of viewpoints and short walks along the lakeside. Special thanks to Melanie Tollemache for the Lake Dunstan images.

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Bendigo

Bendigo is on the east side of Lake Dunstan and is a short side trip off the main highway. It was once a local centre for gold mining, but now there isn’t much more than a sign and the remains of a stone cottage, while grapes have become the main product of the area.

But by following the signposted dirt road up the side of the Dunstan Range for about ten minutes, you’ll reach the ghost towns of Logantown and Welshtown. From there you can walk an hour-long loop or take a longer trail around the remnants of mine shafts, workings and stone houses. There are also great views across the valley to the Pisa Range.

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Clyde

As you get close to Clyde on the main highway alongside Lake Dunstan, you can take a side road to the dam. There are several viewpoints overlooking both the dam and the lake; in the right light the desert colours of the gorge along with the blues of the lake are stunning.

From there it’s just a few minutes to the small gold mining town of Clyde – a good place to stop if you want to spend more time exploring the area, including the gold history, hiking, cycling and vineyards. Clyde is also the start of the Otago Rail Trail multi day cycle track that follows an old railway route to Middlemarch.

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The valleys and plains

Central Otago is well-known for its dry, desert-like appearance, rocky outcrops and lack of forest or greenery. The heart of Central Otago – Manuherikia Valley, Ida Valley and the Maniototo Plain – is sparsely populated, with big skies and golden vistas. It’s completely unlike the rest of New Zealand.

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St Bathans

While a modest side trip, St Bathans must be one of the most unusual and attractive features of a scenic drive through Central Otago. It’s known for the man-made Blue Lake, which was dug by gold miners in the 1800s, and the old Vulcan Hotel. In this area you’ll also get great views of the St Bathans and Hawkdun Ranges.

To get to St Bathans from Clyde, follow the highway to connect with SH85, which heads north east through the Manuherikia Valley. Access is near the end of the valley.

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The Central Otago ranges

While not a side trip or a stop, it’s impossible to talk about a road trip through Central Otago (especially in winter) without lauding the mountain ranges. The St Bathans, Hawkdun, Ida and Kakanui Mountains run roughly from the north end of the Manuherikia Valley to the south of the Maniototo.

In winter, snow falls just short of the valley and plains, which provides some amazing views as you tour the region. Driving towards St Bathans then on the metal roads to the east of Naseby down to Kyeburn will give you the best views. From there you can head back to Dunedin via Palmerston South along the edge of the Kakanui Range or via the Taieri Plain and Middlemarch, with the Rock and Pillar to the right.

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Middlemarch

Middlemarch is a small town at the heart of the Taieri Plain. It marks the end of the Otago Rail Trail and is overlooked by the Rock and Pillar Range, which has high points just above the snow line.

It has a pub, a cafe and a restaurant (at least in the high season), so is a good place to stop during your trip. You can also try a short detour up the Moonlight Rd to the top of the ridge for views over the Taieri and back to the Rock and Pillar, or take Kidds Rd (south of Middlemarch) to the Sutton Salt Lake Track, which is an hour return. From there, you’re less than an hour from Dunedin.

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