We recently went with the Wejugo team to meet with Taoho Patuawa of Te Roroa Iwi to discuss the Kauri Ora project in Waipoua Forest. The project includes responsibility for Tane Mahuta and is managed by Taoho with ranger teams from Te Roroa and three other iwi, covering all the main kauri forests in Northland.
Although these forests are part of the DOC estate, Kauri Ora has taken over the main responsibility for kauri dieback research and protection. We were provided with a fabulous insight into the work being done by an iwi that has a long interest in the area and forests from what is now Dargaville to the Hokianga Harbour.
The kauri tree is an iconic feature of the upper North island, but especially Northland. Kauri can grow to more than 50 metres tall with trunk girths of up to 16 metres and live for at least 2,000 years. Unfortunately, forest destruction was a mainstay activity of European migration, although it stopped before the last significant stands of big trees were taken. From around 50 to 150 years of kauri regrowth is now apparent throughout the remaining forests.
More recently the kauri forests have been threatened by kauri dieback which is caused by phytophthora agathidicida (PA), a fungus pathogen that affects the roots. In Waipoua, the Kauri Ora team is doing a fantastic job of measuring and monitoring the spread of the disease through a combination of aerial photography and on the ground soil testing. This has resulted in the closure of some tracks, particularly the Yakas Track, but you can safely visit the two biggest trees in NZ; Tāne Mahuta and Te Matua Ngahere.
State Highway 12 takes you directly through the forest, thick with large kauri. There are obvious car parks for tracks to Tāne Mahuta and Te Matua Ngahere. Drive north from Dargaville or south from the Hokianga Harbour – about 45 to 50 minutes either way.
You can also camp near the old visitor centre off Waipoua River Road.
Tāne Mahuta
Tāne Mahuta (Lord of the Forest) is New Zealand’s largest known kauri tree at around 2,000 years old. The tree was first recorded in the 1920s when contractors were surveying the passage for the present State Highway 12 through the forest.
In Māori mythology, Tāne is the son of Ranginui the sky father and Papatūānuku the earth mother. Tāne was the child that tore apart his parents’ embrace and clothed his mother in the forest. Hence, all living forest creatures are Tāne’s children.
It is an easy walk to the tree, less than 5 minutes. Even if you have seen other big kauri, Tāne Mahuta is stunning in its dominance of the surrounding forest. To get a broader view from further back, walk further along the track to a second viewing platform.
The walk is off SH12 in the Waipoua Forest.
Te Matua Ngahere
Te Matua Ngahere (Father of the Forest) is the second largest kauri tree in New Zealand. It is the oldest out of the two largest and is estimated to be over 2,000 years. The tree was ‘discovered’ by Nicholas Yakas in 1928 when he and other men were working to build the road that is now SH 12.
An easy 20 minute walk along a gravelled path and boardwalks and through a magnificent section of big kauri leads you to a viewing platform in front of Te Matua Ngahere. Although it is not as tall as Tāne Mahuta, it is wider with the nickname “the wall”.
The walk to Te Matua Ngahere is signposted as ‘Kauri Walks’ from SH12. From this car park, you will also see signs for Four Sisters, and Yakas Kauri, however these walks are presently closed.
Visitor Centre and Campground
As part of its Tiriti O Waitangi settlement, Te Roroa took possession of the previously DOC visitor centre and campground on Waipoua River Road, accessed from State Highway 12 at the south end of the forest.
Te Roroa is planning to upgrade the facilities, and the road has now been fully sealed as the first stage. The campground which sits alongside the Waipoua River continues to be available. It’s a nice remote location and in the evenings there is a chance you will see kiwi around the forest fringe.
Want more North Island Trip Ideas?
Check out our blogs on Northland, SH 1 North Island Road Trip, and Te Henga Coastline.