The Waitakere Ranges, on the northwestern coast of Auckland, is one of the top features of the North Island – and the main access route to its various beaches and forest tracks is along Scenic Drive.
Scenic Drive starts in Titirangi (“fringe of heaven”) Village and runs all the way to the intersection of Waitakere Road and Swanson Road to the northwest. Along the way are side roads to Huia and Whatipu, Piha, Karakere and Anawhata, and Te Henga Road with access to Te Henga Bethells Beach. There are also several walking tracks which can be accessed directly from Scenic Drive.
Because it provides access to so many fabulous locations, Scenic Drive is often overlooked as a trip in its own right, with its winding road, surrounding native forest, and excellent viewpoints. If you’re new to Auckland and short on time, do the drive and take advantage of some of the shorter walks as an introduction to upper North Island native forests.
Scenic Drive
Scenic Drive mostly follows the winding route of one of the main ridge lines of the Waitakere Ranges. From Titirangi, Scenic Drive runs from about 200m to 400m above sea level, before dropping down at the edge of the range in Swanson.
The road was built in the 1930s, at the tail end of a period in which the native forest, including most of the ancient kauri, was decimated by logging and farming. Fortunately, much of the area was being converted into parks around the time the road was constructed. The result a hundred years on is substantial native forest recovery, with Scenic Drive providing the main route through the reforesting region.
Although many tracks in the parks are currently closed due to kauri dieback disease, a few hours spent on Scenic Drive gives you a sense of the colonial and post-colonial history of the range, the rugged terrain and native forests, plus fabulous views across the range, back to downtown Auckland and out to the west coast.
From downtown Auckland, the best access to Scenic Drive is from Titirangi village. Allow about 20 minutes to get to the start of Scenic Drive – and avoid rush hour traffic.
Arataki
The Arataki Visitor Centre is about 7kms along Scenic Drive from Titirangi. It has a large parking area, including room for campervans. The visitor centre itself is fabulous, covering the history of the region and the many outdoor activities around the Waitakere Ranges.
There is a short walk to a viewing platform on the right of Arataki Visitor Centre, which provides 270 degree views over the range to the southwest, coast, and around to the north.
Arataki is also the starting point for a couple of longer forest walks and the multi-day Hillary Trail, which goes southwest to Whatipu, then north to Te Henga Bethells Beach (although the track is currently closed).
Arataki nature trails
From the Visitor Centre car park, walk through the tunnel that passes beneath Scenic Drive to access the Arataki nature trails. At a slow meander the walk is less than an hour, but it is a superb example of native forest, has some lovely viewpoints over the forest canopy, and a short loop walk uses name tags to help you recognise native trees.
At the end of the main trail there’s a group of relatively mature kauri trees, with many rickers (young kauri) nearby. These are the only mature survivors from the destruction of the Waitakere kauri forests over 100 years ago that are currently publicly accessible.
Rose Hellaby House
As you drive further along Scenic Drive and pass the Piha Road turnoff, you’ll see a sign for Rose Hellaby House. The house is up a short drive in the surrounding forest, and is named for Rose Hellaby, who owned the house from the 1930s until the late 1960s, when she gifted it to Auckland City. Rose had an intrepid life which is described in some detail on a panel next to the house.
Although the house is relatively modest, it has one of the best views in Auckland. From the back garden, there is a steep forested drop to the northeast, with views all the way to downtown Auckland and the Waitemata Harbour.
Parkinson Lookout
Parkinson Lookout is signposted just after Rose Hellaby House on Scenic Drive. There is a grass bank beside the road, then a short forest walk to another viewpoint. This is a good option for a picnic, or an alternative viewpoint if access to Rose Hellaby House is restricted.
Large Kauri Tree
A little further along Scenic Drive is a sign for “Large Kauri Tree”. The reason for stopping is better than the sign suggests – after a short walk, you’re standing in front of a big ancient kauri. It’s more mature than the trees on the Arataki Nature Trail, and the only ancient tree that you can get close to in the Waitakere Range at present. The other similar-sized trees in the Cascade Kauri section of the park are still closed off due to kauri dieback disease.
Spragg Track
Spragg Track is about 5kms along Scenic Drive from Parkinson Lookout, and is an excellent introduction to the Waitakere Ranges. There are two track entries on Scenic Drive – one just after Mountain Road (when you’re heading northwest), and one a bit further along the road. Both are poorly signposted and easy to miss. The first entrance has parking in a grassed area off the road; the second has an unmarked parking area on the verge almost opposite the track entrance.
Spragg Track contains several connected short tracks, which are all reasonably flat and take about an hour to complete at a meander. The tracks are a bit confusing – we suggest using Topo Map to navigate. The forest walk has a scattering of mature native trees, with rampant, jungle-like regrowth in between. The kiekie climbing shrub is especially prominent, with many mass tangled examples. There are also three obvious mature kauris, one of which is particularly large and right next to the track.
One of the track legs passes a modest white picket fence enclosure. This was the first cemetery in the area, and is now being taken over by the regenerating forest.
Pukematekeo
Drive for another kilometre and you’ll see the one-way access road to Pukematekeo. This is one of the highest points in the range and the road goes to the top, making it easily accessible. There’s a large grassed area on the peak with near 360 degree views across the range and back to Auckland city.
Looking almost due south, you can see the Waitakere Reservoir Dam, and just about pick out the 95 metre Waitakere Falls that drops from the base of the dam to the Toetoeroa Stream. This is the highest waterfall in the range. You can also access the top of the falls from the Waitakere Reservoir Walk, accessible from Scenic Drive. But unfortunately, the extensive track system that links the reservoir to Pukematekeo and the Cascade Kauri section of the park is closed due to kauri dieback track restrictions, so this may be the best view of Waitakere Falls for a while.
Want more Auckland trip ideas?
Check out our recent posts on Muriwai, the North Shore Coastal Walkway, the Waitakere walking tracks, and more.