Otago Peninsula is a mostly steep set of hills, including ancient volcanic cones, that sits between the Pacific Ocean and Otago Harbour. For the most part, it has been intensively farmed over the last 150 years, with a few villages scattered up Portobello Road on the harbour side, and at the south end.
But once you are up Highcliff Road, you are effectively in backcountry with few people around. From there you can access several beautiful beaches, by car and walking track, complete with sea lions and seals, and even penguins if you are willing to be there at dawn or dusk. At the northern point is the only mainland albatross breeding ground in the world, although you must pay for access to the viewpoint.
The peninsula is surprisingly big. I have spent at least 3 days there now, and still have several walks and beaches I’d like to do. In addition, the weather can be hit and miss, but it’s easy to have back up plan, inclusive of Larnach Castle and around nearby Dunedin.
Tomahawk Beach
Tomahawk Beach is the first on the Otago Peninsula. It is separated from St Kilda by Lawyers Head, and like St Kilda is south-facing. You can drive to the top of this point for a view of Tomahawk, and walk from there back along the cliff at the edge of the golf course. But it’s easier to drive around on Tomahawk Road to the small beach town of Ocean Grove.
From the carpark, it’s either a short walk through the sand dunes or around the stream at the bottom that is fed by Tomahawk Lagoon. This surf beach is very attractive, with white sand. You can wander down the beach to the east to Smaills Beach as well. It is quite possible that you will see sea lions on the beach.
The name of the beach apparently has nothing to do with throwing axes and tomahawks. A likely explanation is that it’s a transliteration from the 1850s for the Māori phrase “toma haka”, meaning more or less “to dance beside the gravesite”. But this is only one possible explanation.
Smaills Beach
Smaills Beach is east along Tomahawk Road from Ocean Grove and Tomahawk Beach. Before you reach the beach access, there are a couple of stopping points high on the cliffs above the beach. There you will find some old WW2 gun emplacements, now repurposed as public art, with some less formal graffiti, as well as more superb views. As an alternative, it is an easy beach walk from Tomahawk Beach and back.
Continue down to the carpark, then it’s a few minutes walk to Smaills Beach through the sand dunes and scrub. This is another beautiful white sand Pacific Coast surf beach, although the natural ocean rips make it dangerous for unpatrolled swimming.
Watch out for sea lions and penguins at dawn and dusk. You may also see the odd nudist.
Sandfly Bay
Like the other accessible surf beaches on the Pacific coast of the Otago Peninsula, Sandfly Bay is very attractive. In addition, we didn’t see a single sandfly, so don’t let the name put you off. The beach has a long stretch of mostly white sand with gold and yellow flecks and streaks, backed by sand dunes. It is a prime spot for sea lions and for penguins at dawn and dusk. Take extra care if you are enticed to swim as you have the normal risks with no surf patrol.
If you prefer your beaches more remote, then this is the one. Easiest access is from Highcliff Road then down Seal Point Road, high up on Otago Peninsula. Then it is a quite short but steep trail down from the carpark and across the sand dunes (about 20 minutes each way). There is an easily accessible viewing platform high above the beach a few minutes from the carpark if you are short of time.
You can also access the beach from the end of Ridge Road or Sandymount – both longer walks in.
Sandymount
Sandymount is a reserve and the high point immediately to the northeast of Sandfly Bay. The main access is along metal Sandymount Road from Highcliff Road. From the carpark, the 20 minute hike up to the top of the mount is clearly marked. You can then walk down the mount on a second track that starts just before the top and connects with the loop track that goes around the mount. The loop takes you to Lovers Leap and the Chasm on the coast.
The mount is largely covered by low regenerating native scrub and flax. The path up from the carpark is moderately rocky and easy, although the path down to the loop track is more akin to walking on a sandhill in places, hence the name. When you get to the bottom, head left on the track for the rest of the loop and right if you want to walk down to Sandfly Bay, or for a flat walk back to the carpark.
The views around the surrounding region are excellent throughout this hike. The top is getting a bit overgrown but you should be able to push through easily for a better viewpoint over Allans Beach and on to Mt Charles to the northeast. To the north and northwest is Hoopers Inlet and surrounding hills, and to the west is Sandfly Bay, best seen while walking down to the loop track.
Lovers Leap
The Sandymount Loop track goes around the base of the mount, connecting with a track to Sandfly Bay and with the hike to the top. Going from west to east it initially passes through a pretty section of regenerating forest. It then opens out onto a mostly steep grassy slope below the mount, with superb views down to the coast. Continue on to find Lovers Leap, about halfway around the loop.
Lovers Leap is a natural bridge on the coast and is clearly marked on Topo Map, Google and the DOC website, but there is no sign post and you can’t see it from the track; nor is there an obvious set of footprints to follow in the grass. If you were to do the walk without knowing it was there, you would miss it!
To be sure of finding it, head off the trail towards the coast, once the slope flattens out. After about 20 to 40 metres, you will realise you are walking towards a cliff edge, but you will see it well before it becomes risky. As you get closer to the edge, you should be able to see the cliff rolling away to the east and Lovers Leap practically in front of you. Unfortunately, we faffed around a bit figuring this out and the fog rolled in just as we got to the best viewing position!
Allans Beach Viewpoint
The second half of the Sandymount Loop Track takes you from Lovers Leap back to the carpark. On the way, there is a short marked deviation to a fantastic viewpoint that looks towards Allans Beach and 400-metre-high Mt Charles. Unfortunately, the incoming fog partly obscured the view on the day.
On the maps, there is also a trail marked that goes to the cliff edge above the Chasm. But there is no separate sign and in the fog we couldn’t see if there was any obvious path.
The fog did however add some drama on the last section of the loop, which passes by an old farm building then through a tunnel formed by a group of macrocarpa trees, planted in rows along a farm road well over 100 years ago. Quite a different feel for NZ.
Allans Beach
As a rule, beaches are at their best with blue skies and sunshine. But this can be a bit hit and miss around the Otago Peninsula, as with our visit to Allans Beach. But the grey low cloud did add drama, plus the interesting cliffs, wind blown surf, sea lions, and even a solitary fur seal. Also, spot the artistic endeavour with the kelp!
To get to Allans Beach, take Hoopers Inlet Road from Sandymount Road all the way round the far side of the inlet, then follow Allans Beach Rd to the end. It’s a short walk across a field then through dune grass to the beach.
This beach is one of the more remote options on the peninsula, while still easily accessible from the carpark.
Cape Saunders Road
The section of the Otago Peninsula bounded by Hoopers Inlet to the east and Papanui Inlet to the north only takes about 30 minutes to explore by car. Take Cape Saunders Road around the south end of Papauni Inlet which climbs up to a wind blown ridge between Mt Charles Poatiri and Papanui Cone. It’s an interesting blend of green and gold farmland, with some great viewpoints back down to Papanui Inlet and across to Victory Beach.
Although there is very little human habitation, you are only about 15 minutes or so drive from Portobello on the northwest side of the peninsula.
Okia Reserve and the Pyramids
On the northern side of Papanui Inlet, follow Dick Road west to the parking area at its end. From there, go into the Okia Reserve and walk along the flat farm road to the Pyramids. There are two of them and they are so named for obvious reasons.
You can hike up the one on the right on an unmarked but obvious track. It’s rough but only takes a few minutes and gives you a view across the Okia Flats towards Victory Beach (also Wickliffe Bay).
You may notice the columnar basalt nature of the rock platform at the top, similar to the rock formation at the Organ Pipes near Mt Cargill. You can see this more clearly if you walk around to the west side of the right hand Pyramid. There is also a sheltering rock overhang.
From the Pyramids, it another km across the Okia Flats to the beach.
Victory Beach
From the Okia Reserve carpark at the end of Dick Road, it is a about 20 minutes walk to the Pyramids, then another 20 minutes across Okia Flats to Victory Beach (also Wickliffe bay). This white sand beach is the longest on the Otago Peninsula, at 3 kms.
From the Pyramids, you can head right or left across the flats to get to the beach. The flats are largely scrubland which is gradually regenerating as native shrubs and trees, helped by plantings. Toi toi and harakeke (native NZ flax) are the most common plants but give it a generation or two and larger trees will start to reappear. There are several boards along the track that describe the recovery project, as well as pre-colonial history.
On the day the weather was not great at the beach, which is oddly named after the SS Victory, wrecked there in 1861. Apparently, you can see evidence of the wreck at the low tide at the south end of the beach, but that’s another 2 kms to walk each way.
If you like beaches remote, this one is for you, but try and choose a nicer day!
Taiaroa Head
Taiaroa Head is at the far northeast end of Otago Peninsula. Take scenic Harrington Point Road along the coast from Portobello to its end. The head is best known for the Royal Albatross colony, the only mainland albatross nesting site in the world. You need to pay to join a tour to access the viewpoints from within the Royal Albatross centre. If you do go into the centre, you also get access to a restored disappearing gun emplacement from the late 1800s – the Russian scare reached Dunedin!
The reserve around the centre is free to access and also worth the visit. There are nice views over the Otago Harbour towards Aramoana and out over the Pacific Ocean from the high cliffs to the east of the centre. On the day, the wind was blasting through, creating plumes off the ocean.
Larnach Castle Gardens
Larnach castle gardens are nationally recognised. Even on the drab day we visited, they were full of flowers and colour with a fabulous mixture of NZ natives, such as the kōwhai ngutukākā (kākā beak flower), and exotics. The garden is a mix of themes, but it all works well in combination.
It is framed by mature trees which are well maintained. Within this are a substantial lawn with a pool and fountain to the front of the house, then a series of gardens around the sides and back. There are a variety of sculptures scattered around the gardens, and even a “ruin” as a bonus.
You can get a map from the gift shop at the entry to the castle which marks the section and key features.
Larnach Castle Interior
Larnach Castle is the perfect bad weather back up option on the Otago Peninsula. It combines an indoor self tour with one of the best established gardens in NZ, along with a cafe. It is open almost every day of the year and there is an entry that you pay at the gate on the access driveway.
The castle was originally built by the Larnach family in the 1870s in a Gothic Revival style. The family called it “the Camp”, but locals quickly designated it a castle, presumably because it has a turret. Inside, the castle has been substantially restored by its current owners and is unique for NZ.
There is an excellent series of boards which describes the life of the Larnach family, which was a combination of great success and abject tragedy, resulting in sale of the castle in 1905. It then had multiple owners and had fallen into disrepair when the Barker family took it on in the 1960s and made it their life’s project. Make sure you watch the video!
Want more Trip Ideas?
Check out our blogs on a Dunedin to Central Otago road trip, and a Winter Road Trip through Central Otago.