The north eastern part of Marlborough is dominated by two large bays. To the east of Blenheim is Cloudy Bay Te Koko O Kupe (also known as Kupe’s Bay), and southeast of Blenheim is Clifford Bay. Cape Campbell marks the most easterly point of the region and of the South Island.
This coastal area is often overlooked because of the scenic Marlborough Sounds, and the vineyards and wineries around Blenheim. However, it’s an interesting area to explore and there are several places where you can camp by the ocean.
We start with the area around Clifford Bay, which runs from the Awatere River mouth to Cape Campbell, and incorporates Lake Grassmere, Marfells Beach (where you can camp), Mussel Point and the Cape. The area behind the bay is dominated by the Awatere Valley, now a major grape growing area in its own right, and the start of the rugged hills, then mountains, that lead into the Seaward and Inland Kaikoura Ranges.
Awatere Valley
From Blenheim, it’s a short, windy drive on State Highway 1 over Weld Pass and Dashwood Pass to Awatere Valley. The town of Seddon is at the head of the valley – if you have a moment, stop at the two-storey historic bridge just before Seddon, which sat astride New Zealand’s main highway for over a hundred years.
Once you’re in Awatere Valley, keep an eye out for somewhere safe to stop on the side of the road. The views of the vineyards spreading up the valley are stunning. These photos were shot in autumn, but spring and summer would show a green carpet surrounded by dry hills.
Lake Grassmere
As you cross Awatere Valley, you’ll see Lake Grassmere to the left. This large, shallow lake is best known for the salt extraction facility on its west side.
For the best views of the lake and salt facility, drive down Kaparu Road. The ponds by the road are filled with seawater and the water evaporates, leaving the salt behind. What you will see will depend on the stage of the process, but it is interesting.
Next, take Marfells Beach Road around the south side of the lake to the beach. If you stop after the road swings to the north but before the beach, you’ll get a good, wide view of the hills and mountains to the south west of Clifford Bay. Note that there is no real easy access to the lake itself.
Marfells Beach
Marfells Beach is a remote, lesser known place to camp and explore. The area in front of the DOC campground is a sandy surf beach, but if you head east towards Mussel Point the beach changes to a series of stony and rocky platforms below a cliff. The most interesting features the rock pools and the coating of bright red seaweed that is exposed as the tide goes out.
Access to Marfells Beach is from Marfells Beach Road towards the southeast end of Clifford Bay, which is around 20 kilometres long. The sealed road runs out about halfway along the beach, and there’s a 4WD / walking track that continues over the rocky section, below the cliff to Mussel Point. This is just above the high tide line. You can then continue on along the next beach to Cape Campbell and its lighthouse by foot or 4WD at low tide. Allow around 5 to 6 hours to walk to Cape Campbell and back from the end of the sealed road.
Mussel Point
Mussel Point is a rocky point that separates Marfells Beach from the next (unnamed) beach, with Cape Campbell at its far eastern end. It’s best to explore as the tide goes out. We were fortunate to see a young seal sunbathing, plus a good number of shags.
From here, you can walk all the way to the Cape, or part way towards Mount Toko (the high point along the cliff face to the east), where the views are superb.
Cape Campbell
Cape Campbell is as far east as you can go on the mainland of the South Island. But the real attraction is the sense of complete remoteness, and the scenic views to the lighthouse along the white, grey and golden cliffs above the beach.
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