Ship Creek Tauparikākā is between Haast River and Lake Moeraki in south Westland. This absolute gem in the Te Wāhipounamu World Heritage Area boasts two unique short walks, a couple of viewing platforms, and a beautiful beach. It is also one of only a few places where you can easily access the coast as you head north to Hokitika.
It is well signposted as you approach on State Highway 6, with a large parking area. From there, it is a short walk to a picnic area and a viewing tower that overlooks the dunes above the beach and across the Ship Creek lagoon. Next to the tower is a shelter with excellent info panels that describe the ecology of the Tauparikākā Marine Reserve and the basis for the European name. This arose from the discovery of part of a ship in the 1870s, the SS Schonberg, that actually sank off the coast of Victoria, Australia in the 1850s. The Māori name, Tauparikākā, means “line of parrots”.
From the shelter, you can head over the dunes to the beach (a couple of minutes) or take one of the main main walks – the rather lamely named “Swamp” and “Dune Lake” walks. These well signposted walks are short, easy, and exceptional.
On the day, there were no sandflies to speak of, but we have been there when it was diabolical. They are at their worst on still, overcast days outside of winter and are less likely to be a problem once you are on the tracks, away from the carpark and the beach. Remember, they can’t fly as fast as you can walk. . .
Ship Creek Viewpoint
The two-storey viewing tower, visitor shelter, and picnic area are next to the Ship Creek car park. The tower looks over the lagoon fed by Ship Creek and the dunes to the beach. The visitor shelter has a number of interesting information panels that describe the ecology of the area, including what you should expect to see around the adjacent Tauparikākā Marine Reserve.
If you are there in spring, keep a sharp look out for the Fiordland crested penguin (tawaki). Even better is the possibility of spotting Hector dolphins (tutumairekurai) from the beach over the dunes immediately in front of you.
Swamp Walk
The 30 minute Swamp Walk starts by the visitor shelter and takes you down the south side of the Ship Creek lagoon, through rainforest dominated by ancient trees, then does a loop on boardwalks through the swamp with its ghostly kahikatea trees. This walk is the only obviously easy access to a south Westland swamp, so take some extra time to have a closer look at the native flora.
Kahikatea (Europeans called them white pine) are wet feet tolerant and adapted for the lowland swamps and wetlands around the region. Unfortunately, they also made excellent butter and cheese boxes. As such, they were quite heavily milled in other parts of the West Coast around the late 1800s as dairy farms were established in the river valleys. There is an interesting panel and an example of a butter box as you walk around the track.
These photos were taken after a dry spell, but it is even more dramatic when it’s wet, so don’t let bad weather put you off.
Dune Lake Walk
The 30 minute Dune Lake Walk starts from the Ship Creek visitor shelter and follows a boardwalk behind the dunes. It then enters a beautiful section of wind-stunted coastal rainforest before popping up to a platform looking over a lake bound by the dunes. It is a particularly pretty place and there are more excellent information panels describing how unique it is.
Continuing on the track takes you to another viewpoint above the beach, then you can head down to the beach for the return walk.
Dune Lake Viewpoint
As you continue around the Dune Lake Walk, you will see the entrance to a second viewpoint that provides a sweeping coastal view to the south. The Dune Lake is to the left, separated from the beach by sand banks covered with a colourful array of harakeke (flax). The long expanse of beach, all the way to the Haast River, extends to the right. The flowering of the flax added more colour on the day.
Head back down from the viewpoint to access the beach.
Ship Creek Beach
You can access the north end of the Ship Creek beach directly from the car park along a boardwalk over the dunes, or from a short access track from the Dune Lake Walk. The beach is about 6 kms long, measured by the distance to the Waita River mouth, so there is plenty of room to stretch your legs. It is a short distance to the north end where Ship Creek flows from the lagoon into the surf in front of Tauparikākā Point.
The beach is beautiful, with plenty of colourful stones and some driftwood to look out for. But the highlight is the high probability of seeing Hector dolphins (Tutumairekurai) playing in the surf immediately in front of you. Apparently it is one of the few places you can reliably see them without a boat. Unfortunately, they were not too interested in having their photos taken, or I lacked the necessary perseverance!
Want more West Coast Trip Ideas?
Check out our Return to the Rugged West Coast: South Westland blog, as well as our Week on the West Coast series; Westport to Karamea and Hokitika to Punakaiki.