Exploring the Mackenzie: Lake Pukaki to Lindis

From Lake Pukaki, the rest of the journey to Lindis is filled with lakes, lochs, and canals – and a stop at Aoraki, Mount Cook for good measure.

Lake Pukaki

Lake Pukaki is a large, post-glaciation lake which is often the same turquoise blue as Lake Tekapo. It lies at the head of the Tasman River, which is fed by the Tasman Glacier on the north side of Aoraki and Mount Tasman.

There is no town at Pukaki, but there are a couple of large parking areas with views across the lake towards Aoraki and the Southern Alps. When you’re in the main parking area, you’re essentially standing on what was once the terminal moraine of the Tasman Glacier at the end of the last ice age.

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Aoraki Mount Cook

The 50 km drive between Lake Pukaki and Aoraki is one of the loveliest stretches in New Zealand, especially after snowfall. The sight of the mountains, especially once Aoraki comes into view, is truly breath-taking on a clear winter day.

Aoraki itself is worth a few days of exploring (we’ll cover the range of hikes another day), so stay for a night or two. There are several accommodation options, from camping to the Hermitage Hotel, which has a museum commemorating the life of Sir Edmund Hillary.

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Lake Poaka and Loch Cameron

On your drive from Mount Cook to Ohau, you can follow the Pukaki Canal road instead of the main highway. The turnoff is shortly after leaving Pukaki – make sure to take the metal road on the west side of the canal, as this gives you access to Lake Poaka, a small and pretty lake with a campground. You can then continue on to Loch Cameron, just a few kilometres down the road. Cross over the canal bridge; the loch is on the right.

We were fortunate to get some of these shots during a hoar frost, but rest assured, these two small lakes are stunning all year round.

Just down the road from Loch Cameron is Twizel, established to support the hydro development in the region. Today, it has excellent cafes and restaurants in the town centre.

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Pukaki and Ohau Canals

From Loch Cameron, continue on to Lake Ohau on the west side of the canal. You can access the lake near the Ohau River mouth. Although the road is a dead end, you get a fantastic view of Ben Ohau from a viewpoint between the river and the canal. If you have time, you can take a hike along the Alps to Oceans bike trail on the lake shore towards Ohau village.

On your return, take the east side of the canal. This will bring you over the Ohau Power Station to Lake Ruataniwha.

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Lake Ruataniwha

Lake Ruataniwha is a smaller and lesser-known artificial lake. It was filled in the late 1970s as part of the hydro scheme. Today, it is a centre for rowing and has a substantial camping area.

As you follow the road to the end of the lake, you’ll reconnect with the main highway, then cross over the dam to the south. Immediately off the main highway to your left is the lovely Wairepo Arm, with a salmon farm at its head. From here you can also access a campground on Lake Benmore by following another hydro canal.

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Lake Ohau

As you head south toward Oamarama, you’ll see a turnoff to Lake Ohau village. There’s a small ski field, good accommodation, and a campground. The views of Ben Ohau and the surrounding ranges are worth stopping for, and you can hike around the lake to the north east on the Alps to Ocean cycle trail, or take a reasonably gentle hike up along the Tarnbrae Track, also part of the Alps to Ocean, towards its high point. The track runs from the Ohau Lodge across the face of the Ohau Range, and while the entire walk is 13 kms each way to the high point, you don’t need to go far to get some incredible views.

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Lindis Pass

Omarama more or less marks the end of the Mackenzie area, as well as being on the fork which takes you east to the Waitaki Valley. Continuing on takes you into Lindis, an exceptionally dry and dramatic tussock land that includes the Lindis Pass. During snow storms, the road can be affected, so check before you start your journey.