A trip across the Central Divide in the Southern Alps is a study in contrasts. The western side is wet and more heavily forested, while the east is much drier with more open tussock highlands, and in summer and autumn, some areas approach desert. You see this contrast on the drive from Arthurs Pass to Lake Coleridge, via Lyndon Road.
On the way, you cross the very wide Waimakariri River valley, then skirt the Craigieburn Range. There are a number of camping, walking and hiking options, the very popular Castle Hill and Cave Stream, and several small lakes, the most accessible being Lake Pearson and Lake Lyndon.
When you get to Lake Lyndon, the main highway heads over Porters Pass to the Canterbury Plain, or you can take the more adventurous Lyndon Road to Lake Coleridge, before heading back to the Plain. Note that there are no shops between Arthurs Pass and Springfield, so take some food and drinks with you. It can take up to a day to complete this trip, as there are plenty of scenic stops.
Waimakariri
Not long after leaving Arthurs Pass, you’ll pass by the Klondyke campground and cross the Waimakariri River valley. This river, like others that flow east from the Southern Alps, is braided, with multiple channels flowing through wide areas of gravel flats. As you cross the valley you’re almost facing south, so it’s perfect for early morning and evening photos, with plenty of safe viewpoints. This includes a section of the road as it rises above the river towards Goldney Saddle. We went through in summer but a fine winter day is probably the best time of year, with snowy peaks.
Bealey Spur
There are several hikes you can access between Arthurs Pass and Lyndon Road. We chose the Bealey Spur Track, which starts above the hamlet of Bealey Spur. The parking area is just off the highway before the houses, and you then walk up the road about 500 metres to reach the start of the track.
The track climbs through pretty beech forest, manuka groves, then tussock to an amazing viewpoint over the Waimakariri and surrounding mountain ranges. It takes about an hour or so to get to this viewpoint, and you can then continue up the spur for another hour to a hut and more views.
Late spring or early summer is a good time for this walk, with flowering manuka, native daisies, and rare native mistletoe in the beech forest. The easiest way to find the mistletoe is by looking out for red (sometimes yellow) petals on the ground, then looking up. You may also notice small white snowberries above the bush line, which are edible.
Mountain views
From Goldney Saddle, you’re immediately into a drier part of the Alps. There are fewer examples of beech forest rising to the snow line, but the snow line is still obvious, with grey tops rising from the gold and browns of tussock and scrub. As you drive this section, the Craigieburn Range is on the west side of the road. On the east side is Sugarloaf, then Lake Pearson and Purple Hill, then Broken Hill, before reaching Castle Hill Village (which has no shops). With or without snow on the mountain tops, this short drive is stunning on a clear day.
Lake Pearson
Lake Person is a pretty lake, overlooked by Purple Hill. It has a campground and is a good place to stop for a snack and a swim. The willow trees around the western edge of the lake provide some shelter on a hot day and you can fish for trout and salmon when in season.
There are two smaller lakes nearby that you can fish in, just off the main highway; Lake Sarah is about 2.5 kilometres along Craigieburn Road, and Lake Grassmere is across a private access way.
Cave Stream Scenic Reserve
The Cave Stream walking track is a very popular short walk, like nearby Castle Hill. The parking area and track access is off the main highway, to the northeast of Castle Hill Village. You can either do the loop above the gorge or walk down to Cave Stream and the south end of the cave. This track is a little rough compared to the rather manicured higher track, but the cave entrance is definitely worth it. If you follow the stream to the north you will find a swimming hole; keep going and you will get to the other end of the cave.
You can transit the cave from south to north but it is cold, very dark, and wet, with several small waterfalls. Take appropriate gear and precautions if you want to do this. There is a panel describing the transit at the head of the track. As with Castle Hill, there is a mass of big daisies and other wildflowers in spring and early summer.
Castle Hill
Kura Tawhiti Castle Hill is just to the south of Castle Hill Village. This is a very popular walk leading to a delightful series of rocks, which look a bit like castle ramparts or rough teeth. Other areas are jumbles of large stones. Wherever you look, there are points of interest and variation. From the large car park, it’s about a 1 km walk to get to the exposed rocks.
You can continue to wander behind the rocks and climb on top of them, with nice views over the valley and toward the Torlesse Range to the southeast. A good time to visit is spring and early summer, when there’s a profusion of big daisies around the track and rocks.
Lyndon Road
To the south of Castle Hill, the main highway swings east around the Torlesse Range at Lake Lyndon and heads towards Porters Pass, then down to Springfield on the Canterbury Plain.
Another route is to take the metal Lyndon Road along the southwest edge of the lake towards Lake Coleridge. The road is in reasonable condition, but it does add a more remote leg to this trip. Lake Lyndon itself is worth a stop; it’s pretty, has a campground and you can swim and fish in season. At the north end of the lake, the wildflowers can also be quite intense in spring and early summer.
Want more Canterbury trip ideas?
Check out our posts about Lewis Pass Road to Reefton, Reefton to Arthur’s Pass, Kaikoura to Hanmer Springs, Lake Pukaki to Lindis, or Geraldine to Tekapo.